Muhammed, 27, knows enough Hindi to
understand what bander means. Monkey.
But it isn’t even the daily derogatory
comments that make him doubt his
decision to swap his university in Nigeria
for a two-year master’s degree
programme in chemistry at Noida
International University. Nor is it the
questions about personal hygiene, the
unsolicited touching of his hair or the
endless staring. It is his failure to
interact with Indian people on a deeper
level.
Zaharaddeen Muhammed, a master’s
degree student from Nigeria living in India,
speaks at the Africa-India Solidarity Forum
in New Delhi: Al Jazeera
“People often look at me as if I am
different, and hard to be trusted,” the
tall, softly spoken student explains. “I try
to be friendly. I speak Hindi and always
laugh. But when I offer biscuits to the
neighbours’ children, they don’t accept.”
After a year, one of Zaharaddeen‘s
biggest wishes remains unfulfilled: to be
invited to an Indian wedding.
“I am a big fan of Bollywood,” he
explains about why he wanted to come
to India. “I did not come for the school
because there are enough good
universities back home. But I wanted to
learn about this other culture and
interact with the people here.”
While he speaks with his Indian
classmates at the university, a 75-acre
campus accommodating students from
more than 20 countries, and some of
them also showed up for an international
cultural event he helped to organise,
none of these encounters lead to
friendships.
“I have never been at an Indian person’s
home, as a friend. No one has visited
me,” Zaharaddeen says.
Zaharaddeen rents two rooms on the first
floor of a three-storey house in Greater
Noida, a residential area on the outskirts
of Noida, a satellite town east of New
Delhi and part of what is called the
National Capital Region. The house is
about an hour’s drive south after
crossing the River Yamuna which runs
along Delhi’s east side.
Noida International University, one of five
private universities in the city attracting
students from all over the world, is
another 20 minutes’ drive by bus or auto
rickshaw along a newly constructed
expressway, surrounded by barren fields
and opposite a Formula 1 racing circuit
that was built in 2011.
The university hostels are all off-
campus. Zaharaddeen opted out of living
in them because he likes to cook his own
meals and he’d heard that the hostel
canteens only serve vegetarian food.
A friend from Nigeria, who was already in
India, found his current house for him.
The ground floor is also rented out to a
student from Nigeria.
“My landlord is an extremely good
person,” Zaharaddeen says. Although he
has had some bad experiences with
Indian people, many of them are good,
he stresses. And he doesn’t want to
generalise.
“That would be a huge mistake. Because
it is Indians often generalising about all
people from Africa that makes us feel
unsafe.”
‘Racism at every turn’
Zaharaddeen is a member of the
Association of African Students in India,
which last month announced a protest
rally at New Delhi’s protest street Janter
Manter.
“African students no longer feel safe in
India; we have to deal with racism at
every turn,” said the announcement.
The rally was planned after the
Congolese teacher Masonda Kitanda
Olivier died in an attack in Delhi in May.
A week later, six Africans, including two
women and a priest who was on his way
home with his wife and baby, were
attacked by men with cricket bats.
Earlier this year, a female student from
Tanzania was beaten and stripped in
Bangalore by an angry mob, in response
to a fatal accident caused by a Sudanese
student unknown to her.
Zaharaddeen speaks with horror about
the attack in Bangalore: “She was just
walking there. It could have happened to
any of us.”
In each of the cases, the police said that
racism had nothing to do with it. But for
the student association and the Group of
African Heads of Missions, it had, and
the time had come to take up the issue
at a higher level.
‘Followed and harassed’
Zaharaddeen was supposed to coordinate
transport for the students from Greater
Noida wishing to attend the rally, but it
was cancelled when the student leaders
and diplomats were invited for talks at
the Ministry of External Affairs and the
police commissioner made commitments
to ensure their safety.
After that, Delhi police organised several
community meetings with residents from
African countries and their Indian
neighbours and landlords.
Zaharaddeen attended one of the
meetings in Chattarpur in southwest
Delhi, an area full of narrow alleys
popular with students.
“It was very useful,” he says. “Both sides
got to raise their issues.”
African residents spoke about the
difficulties they often have in finding
accommodation.
“When landlords find out where you are
from, they just say ‘no’,” explains a
female student, who asked us not to
reveal her name or nationality for
security reasons.
“I don’t want to be targeted. Even when
people ask me at parties where I am
from, I often lie … you never know who
you are speaking to. You might be
followed and harassed.”
She used to live in an area similar to
Chattarpur and says she was evicted by
her landlord without any notice. “Even if
they rent out their place to you, they
remain suspicious and start asking for
the rent halfway through the month. I
was late with paying once and was told
to leave immediately.”
Rohtas, a young broker who mediates
between landlords and potential tenants,
says he often gets requests not to show
houses to “black people”, because
they’re presumed to deal in drugs and be
involved in other criminal activities.
And its not just landlords who think like
that, the female student explains.
“Shopkeepers often check the money I
give them to make sure it is not fake,”
she says.
“It is rude and unfair. We are a happy,
cheerful people. But in India we just get
angry.”
‘Demons or drug dealers’
As a secretary of the Nigerian Citizens’
Welfare Association of Greater Noida,
which holds meetings twice a month,
Zaharaddeen encourages other members
to “live peacefully with the host
community”.
That echoes the stance of the All India
Nigeria Students and Community
Association, which operates from New
Delhi and imposes a 1,000-rupee ($15)
fine on its members if they are found to
be dressed “inappropriately”.
Zaharaddeen does not drink or smoke,
but says he has adjusted his lifestyle. He
has classes from 10am to 4pm, eats
lunch on campus, usually with other
international students, and goes home
afterwards.
He might go to a restaurant or the
grocery shop, and on Fridays he goes to
the local mosque, but, he says: “I don’t
go out. In India, you cannot roam the
streets at night. In Nigeria, I used to
hang out till midnight. Here I make sure
to be at home by 9pm-10pm [at the]
latest.”
At a recent meeting organised by the
Africa-India Solidarity Forum, a
traditionally dressed Zaharaddeen spoke
to an audience of about 50 mostly
Indians about the generalisations he
feels Africans are subjected to.
This was seconded by Ibrahim Djiji
Adam, a 25-year-old business student
from Libya.
“We are often seen as demons, drug
dealers or prostitutes,” Ibrahim said.
Unlike Zaharaddeen, Ibrahim made Indian
friends during the three-year programme
he recently completed at Noida
International University. He learned Hindi
and even “dated an Indian girl”, he says.
This is how he says he realised that
many Indians “are racist amongst
themselves”, as well.
The caste system
Professor Archin Vanaik, who retired
from teaching international relations at
Delhi University and also spoke at the
forum, agrees with Ibrahim and links the
widespread racism African people
experience in India to the caste system.
“The caste system makes it easier for
people to accept other forms of
exclusion,” he explains.
There might also be what he calls
“psychological compensation” at play for
those Indians who experience prejudice
as members of lower castes or the so-
called “other backward classes”.
“They could feel better by looking at
African people and thinking ‘at least I am
better than that’,” he says.
Zaharaddeen felt positive after the
forum. “I am happy that so many people
truly care,” he says. “Thanks to meetings
like this, we can start to feel safe
again.”
He hopes that India and Nigeria will
continue their decades-old ties, built
during their struggles for independence
and strengthened in the post-colonial
years of non-alignment, when thousands
of students and business people would
travel between the two countries.
But would he advise a good friend from
Nigeria to pursue their higher education
in India?
“Then I would perhaps tell him to go
elsewhere … The purpose of studying
abroad is to learn about another culture.
If that cannot be achieved, then you
might as well not go.”
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